"Two types of high quality shoe stitching. In this blog post, we will discuss the two main constructions we work with at Carmina Shoemaker: Blake Stitch and Goodyear welt."
To better understand the differences between these types of construction, we first need to ask ourselves: what are the different parts of a pair of shoes?
Shoe body: Made up of the upper, the leather that covers the foot, and the insole, the leather layer inside the shoe.
Sole: The part of the shoe that comes into direct contact with the ground when we walk.
Welt: A component exclusive to Goodyear-welted shoes. The welt is a strip of leather that runs around the shoe between the upper and the sole. Its main purpose is to join the upper to the sole.
Sole: The part of the shoe that comes into direct contact with the ground when we walk.
Welt: A component exclusive to Goodyear-welted shoes. The welt is a strip of leather that runs around the shoe between the upper and the sole. Its main purpose is to join the upper to the sole.
Blake Stitch vs. Goodyear Welt
Now that we know the different parts of a shoe and understand that the stitching is what joins these components together, we can explain how each construction method works. In Blake construction, the body of the shoe (the upper and insole) is stitched directly to the sole. Goodyear welt construction consists of three stages:
1. First, a stitch joins the body of the shoe to the welt.
2. A layer of cork is then applied to the central part of the shoe.
3. Finally, a second stitch joins the welt to the sole.
The main difference between the two is that Blake construction joins the upper, insole and sole together with a single stitch. With Goodyear welt construction, the addition of the welt means that the upper and insole are stitched to the welt, which is then stitched to the sole. As a result, the sole is not stitched directly to the body of the shoe.
1. First, a stitch joins the body of the shoe to the welt.
2. A layer of cork is then applied to the central part of the shoe.
3. Finally, a second stitch joins the welt to the sole.
The main difference between the two is that Blake construction joins the upper, insole and sole together with a single stitch. With Goodyear welt construction, the addition of the welt means that the upper and insole are stitched to the welt, which is then stitched to the sole. As a result, the sole is not stitched directly to the body of the shoe.
Blake stitch
Goodyear welt
Advantages and disadvantages of each construction method
To help you choose the ideal pair of shoes for each occasion, below we look at the main advantages and disadvantages of each type of construction.
Blake stitch
Advantages:
- Greater flexibility: it has fewer layers of leather than a Goodyear-welted shoe.
- Lower price: as Blake construction is simpler than Goodyear welt construction, it is less expensive.
- Lower price: as Blake construction is simpler than Goodyear welt construction, it is less expensive.
Disadvantages:
- Less water resistance and durability: it has fewer layers of leather than a Goodyear-welted shoe.
- More complex resoling: a specific machine is required, making the resoling process more complicated and costly.
- More complex resoling: a specific machine is required, making the resoling process more complicated and costly.
Goodyear welt
Advantages:
- Easier resoling: Goodyear welt construction makes it much easier to replace the sole when it becomes worn.
- Water resistance and durability: the additional layers of leather required for this construction make the footwear more water-resistant and durable.
- Greater comfort: the external stitching, together with the cork layer, allows the shoe to gradually mould to the wearer's foot while also providing insulation.
- Water resistance and durability: the additional layers of leather required for this construction make the footwear more water-resistant and durable.
- Greater comfort: the external stitching, together with the cork layer, allows the shoe to gradually mould to the wearer's foot while also providing insulation.
Disadvantages:
- Higher price: due to the additional materials required, the work involved and the level of craftsmanship needed during production.
- Less flexible: the additional layers of leather required make a Goodyear-welted shoe slightly less flexible than a Blake-stitched shoe.
- Less flexible: the additional layers of leather required make a Goodyear-welted shoe slightly less flexible than a Blake-stitched shoe.
Greater flexibility? More durability? Comfort and insulation? It is clear that Blake-stitched and Goodyear-welted shoes each have their own distinct characteristics. At Carmina Shoemaker, we offer both types of construction because we know that every foot, every step and every customer is unique.
The world of footwear is undoubtedly full of choice. Different styles, colours, constructions and leathers are just some of the many options available when choosing and purchasing a new pair of shoes.
